The SS27 of Ann Demeulemeester

Ann Demeulemeester SS27 – Lonesome Heaven: Beauty in Decay

Ann Demeulemeester presented its Spring/Summer 2027 collection, ‘Lonesome Heaven’, on October 3, 2026, during Paris Fashion Week at the Réfectoire des Cordeliers. The show, unveiling Stefano Gallici’s seventh collection for the house, bridged the worlds of fashion and music, the front row featuring familiar faces such as Jamie Campbell Bower and Landon Barker.

What happens when beauty and deterioration meet? When silence and noise become one and the same, and past and present lose their meaning? ‘’Lonesome Heaven’’ explores the beauty of contradiction, taking inspiration from the creative director’s solitary trip through the Californian desert.

A long drive through an arid landscape, with rock music blasting from the car’s speakers and memories of his adolescence spent in northeastern Italy resurfacing, became the starting point for the collection. It was an experience in which loneliness could be a source of creativity rather than a sign of absence.

As Gallici describes it, “Emptiness with the force of a tornado. Silence as loud as a guitar plugged into a bass amp about to crack.”

The colour palette of white, black, and dusty blue is intentionally restrained, reflecting the contrasts that served as the foundation of the collection and take shape through an aesthetic where decay and beauty coexist. The runway show opens with a series of all-white looks, gradually transitioning to darker stylings and silhouettes.

The shades of white, ecru, chalk and ivory that are normally associated with purity, are reinterpreted through rough margins, worn out finishes and rust stains. The distressed finishes and dust-covered tones subtly echo the dry Californian desert that inspired Gallici’s artistic process.

The ethereal looks featuring asymmetrical ruffles, feathers, lace or braided textures expose a subtle romanticism that contrasts the unfinished edgy look of the clothing. Rather than diminishing their beauty, these imperfections become a defining feature of the designs.

As the collection moves towards the darker colours, structure and tailoring become more prominent. Blazers, coats, pinstriped suits and loose fitting trousers are styled with unexpected elements such as buckled leather sandals, lace details or asymmetrical cuts, elevating the looks in a sophisticated rock and roll manner.

The use of black stays true to Ann Demeulemeester’s dark romanticism characteristic, with the sheer materials, delicate lace and fluid silhouettes, bringing a sense of softness and sensuality.

The dimly lit venue in which the collection was presented amplified the dramatic intensity and mysterious atmosphere of the creative vision. The intimate aesthetic and rock elements of the Ann Demeulemeester universe were brought to life by Chelsea Wolfe and Ben Chisholm’s live performance of the song ‘’Wandering’’. The lead vocalist of the band ‘’Queens of the Stone Age’’, Josh Homme walked the runway in a striped suit, while Ethel Cain, who also collaborated with Gallici on certain looks from the collection, closed the show dressed in a black Chantilly lace dress paired with heavy leather boots, proving the continuous connection between fashion and music.

Stefano Gallici made the rebellious spirit of Ann Demeulemeester as relevant as ever with Lonesome Heaven. Rooted in the house’s distinctive identity yet shaped by his personal vision, the collection strikes a balance between elegance and rebellion.

But how far could Gallici carry his vision in the upcoming seasons as he keeps reinterpreting the house’s established codes? Only his forthcoming collections will reveal the answer.

Article by Alexia Gurau for FM24 – stay tuned for more Fashion Week news!