Chic couture by Barbara Bui

For autumn-winter 2022-2023, Barbara Bui returns with a sophisticated, ultra-sharp collection that oscillates between recollections of the seventies and of the nineties. A chic couture Barbara Bui spirit shaken up by oversized volumes, with pronounced shoulders.

The creator playfully switches between masculine and feminine, structure and movement, sharp lines and streetstyle comfort. The tailoring is bursting with hyper-femininity, perfectly fitted jackets worn over tie neck blouses, pants transformed into pleated Bermuda shorts, extended by square toe boots. Sleeveless parkas with undulating quilting, worn over suits, breathe new life into the look in a single stroke. The looks are brought to life by a gentle orange glow.

An intense colorama that oscillates between cream and tan tones, shades of red and beige, as if ignited by a golden glimmer. Deep brown, vague and jarring, flashed with ultraviolet rays. Really bright black, as if polished, displayed on the tapered silhouettes, on leggings finished with stilettos. Electric blue makes an unexpected appearance in the form of an oversized puffer jacket. Ivory blends into ebony in blurred print, evoking animal motifs and textures of bark.

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Applied to pleats, the design becomes yet more elusive, pixelated, almost evanescent.It adorns ultra-chic blouses worn with flared pants, with nineties accents. The look is poised on a knife-edge. The style is striking, with straight, frontal lines. The movement is sharp, as if captured in action. Lightweight trench-coat in “leopoardized” tortoiseshell print meets boxy patent leather jacket here, and cropped spencer with jewel buttons there.

In contrast to the nineties touches, Barbara Bui immerses us in a very seventies inspiration, Marianne Faithfull-style, punctuated with British suits in Prince of Wales, checked tweed jackets and velvet outfits with accents of rock. Shetland midi skirts, with generous splits, worn with roll necks, a new take on the perfecto and big seventies boots or heeled Mary Janes. Sensuality, only ever suggested, asserts itself naturally.

Items with futuristic accents, finished with silver leather, disrupt big super-chic double-faced coats, gently and elegantly enveloping silhouettes. Sheepskin jackets, symbolic of the house, in gleaming metalized leather, with electrifying effect. Cashmere trompe-l’oeil overcoats available in double or single thickness: sleeveless cross neck jackets, which undo in one easy movement, dress up unbeatably soft sweaters.

And as a final change, Barbara Bui unveils an evening wardrobe, very couture, a total white or black look: tuxedos transformed into dresses, jackets tumbling over the shoulder in an asymmetrical and sensual style and suits covered completely in diamantes.

Brand: Barbara Bui Article by: Fashion Magazine 24

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