Dolce & Gabbana Men SS ‘25

It’s Men’s Fashion Week in Milan and in the midst of a city is buzzing with fashion, Dolce & Gabbana made a new statement in their latest Spring Summer 2025 show.It might sound a cliché, but like the best (Italian) wines, Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana’s work seems to get better with age.

( article by Tiziana Cardini via Vogue Runway )

The men’s collection they sent out today was a handsome example of flavorful restraint and carefree concision. Called Italian Beauty, it read like an homage to the debonair attitude of Italian men, and to their effortless ways with vanity and seductive sense of self-presentation.

Actor Marcello Mastroianni was the perfect embodiment of that posture, and apparently one of the collection’s references.

While in recent seasons they’ve leaned on a sort of reduced rendition of their signifiers, Stefano and Domenico here indulged embellishments a bit more; they hinted at the Italian flair for ornamentation while threading it lightly. The focus was on artisanal craft and the artistry of the fatto a mano (the handmade), a fundamental of Italian culture that they celebrated magnificently in their exhibition Dal Cuore alle Mani (From the Heart to the Hands) at Milan’s Palazzo Reale.

The collection’s opening looks, a series of boxy short-sleeved shirts and blousons, were entirely crocheted in open-work natural raffia, or in soft leather replicating the woven straw texture, toughened up with contrasting trimmings and worn over high-waisted, loose fitting pin-tucked trousers, rolled up at the ankles for ease. Ease was actually the overall feel of the show, hinting at the easygoing demeanor Italians manage to maintain in both pleasure and hardship, and their nonchalant, almost blasé approach to the abundant beauty of their land.

Dolce and Gabbana are among the best tailors in the business; they displayed their deft way with the soft construction of suiting, slightly inspired by the formal bel vestire and decorum of the ’50s, in a series of impeccably relaxed costumes in fluid natural fabrications, mostly in tones of off-white, with overtures to dark green and burgundy, and of course to what they call “Sicily black.” Summery striped polo shirts, sleeveless sweaters or knitted waistcoats were worn tucked into amphora trousers. Coral embroideries were the only decorative highlights of an otherwise well-edited, fast-paced yet breezily languid collection—unfussy and with no concession to pyrotechnics.

It was just a reminder of how good Stefano and Domenico can be at what they do.

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