28 Oct

MBBFW SS’27: an edition defined by new forms of expression and cross-Industry dialogue

The fourth edition of Mercedes-Benz Bucharest Fashion Week [ MBBFW ], held from October 13 to 17, 2026, brought together Romanian and international designers, buyers, members of the press, and industry professionals in Bucharest for a programme dedicated to fashion, creativity, and cultural dialogue.

Following its recent inclusion in the official Milano Fashion Week® calendar, the event continued to strengthen the connection between the local fashion scene and the global industry, presenting a programme that brought fashion into conversation with contemporary art and the city’s cultural heritage. The Throne Hall of the National Museum of Art of Romania hosted the runway shows on this edition’s official calendar, while other events and private presentations took place at some of Bucharest’s most iconic cultural venues, including the Odeon Theatre and the Bucharest National Opera.

Beyond the runway, the SS’27 edition placed a spotlight on initiatives connecting fashion with business, education, and the next generation of designers. The showroom organised in partnership with the Italian Trade Agency facilitated dialogue between brands and international buyers, while Fashion Talks and the Next Generation | Fashion Talent Award competition, developed in collaboration with Polimoda, created opportunities for exchanging ideas and supporting emerging talent.

The launch of the Fashion Art Division, inaugurated with The Body, Elsewhere, an exhibition curated by Charles Moore, introduced a new perspective on the relationship between fashion and contemporary art.

Together, these initiatives shaped an edition that brought creative expression and industry development opportunities into closer dialogue, reaffirming Mercedes-Benz Bucharest Fashion Week’s commitment to supporting and promoting Romanian and regional design.

Collections Presented at Mercedes-Benz Bucharest Fashion Week

The Hummingbird — Ami Amalia

Ami Amalia opened the SS’27 edition at the Odeon Theatre with The Hummingbird, a theatrical fashion performance written and directed by Alexandra Badea, in which the brand’s latest collection became part of a broader reflection on the responsibility behind the clothes we wear.

Drawing on her own experience as a knitwear manufacturer in Transylvania, Ami Amalia highlighted the value of natural fibres, craftsmanship, and garments preserved and passed down through generations, while also addressing the human and environmental impact of the fashion industry.

Through an immersive experience combining sound, performance, and clothing, accompanied by music composed by Călin Țopa, the collection explored the connections between dress, memory, and affection.

The story concluded with the parable of the hummingbird attempting to extinguish a forest fire, a symbol of the belief that every act of responsibility, however small, matters.

SS27 — Rhea Costa

Inspired by the stillness of the desert and the way light transforms the landscape, Rhea Costa’s SS27 collection reimagined the elegance of eveningwear through a versatile wardrobe designed to move effortlessly between different moments of the day.

Sculptural draping, defined waists, and fluid volumes were translated into shirts, tops, skirts, and jackets with relaxed silhouettes, with selected pieces designed to be worn in multiple ways.

Silk, satin, and intricate hand embroidery featuring glass beads reminiscent of grains of sand introduced texture and luminosity to a palette that evolved from pearl and sandy neutrals to ochre, bronze, and burgundy.

Silent Horizons — DUALITAE

With Silent Horizons, DUALITAE explored the desert as a metaphor for clarity and inner transformation.

Under the creative direction of Alina Lazariu, the collection brought together architectural silhouettes, precise tailoring, and natural materials, creating a dialogue between structure and fluidity.

Shades of white, sand, terracotta, and brown defined a minimalist aesthetic, enriched by tactile details and subtle contrasts.

A distinctive element of the collection was its collaboration with the National Institute of Heritage, through which strips of reclaimed denim were transformed by Romanian artisans into a reimagined textile, connecting traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design.

SS27 — Patrizia Pepe

Patrizia Pepe’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection brought creative director Patrizia Bambi’s vision of free-spirited, expressive, and self-assured femininity to Bucharest.

Sensuality, ease, and attitude defined the season’s offering, celebrating individuality and the many expressions of feminine identity.

The presentation was accompanied by a personal message from Patrizia Bambi to the guests, adding a meaningful touch to the connection between the brand’s universe and its Bucharest audience.

I Wish I Could Fix Everything — Alexandra Șipa

Alexandra Șipa presented I Wish I Could Fix Everything, an SS27 collection inspired by the architectural heritage of Romania’s Black Sea coast and the transformations it has undergone over time.

The Mamaia Summer Theatre, Șuțu Villa, and the Dragon Fountain in Constanța served as visual references for a reflection on the memory of places, the passage of time, and the fragility of architectural heritage.

By juxtaposing archival and contemporary imagery, the project drew attention to the relationship between past and present, as well as the desire to preserve what is at risk of disappearing.

ALTER EGO — STUDIO 4353

ALTER EGO, the collection presented by STUDIO 4353, explored identity through the idea of an inner double, the part of the self that coexists with the image projected to the outside world.

Each model was accompanied by a textile doll dressed in an identical outfit, transforming the miniature figure into a symbolic extension of the look.

Oversized silhouettes, relaxed volumes, and original prints designed and produced by the brand created a visual universe inspired by abstract painting and chromatic transitions.

Contrasts between black, graphite, and vibrant shades of blue, pink, green, and yellow supported a reflection on memory, childhood, and the multiple versions of the self.

SS27 — ATU Body Couture

ATU Body Couture celebrated ten years of creativity and collaboration with Cătălin Vălean through a special artistic moment presented alongside ANGHEL STUDIO and the Madrigal – Marin Constantin National Chamber Choir.

For the occasion, the brand created 42 costumes for the choir members, reinterpreting signature pieces from its own aesthetic universe and adapting them to the performers’ stage presence.

The encounter between fashion and music transformed clothing into an integral part of artistic expression.

Sacred Couture — ANGHEL STUDIO

ANGHEL STUDIO made its Mercedes-Benz Bucharest Fashion Week debut with Sacred Couture, a collection inspired by the symbolism of liturgical and monastic garments, presented in a special artistic performance alongside ATU Body Couture and the Madrigal – Marin Constantin National Chamber Choir.

Monumental silhouettes, oversized sleeves, and sculptural volumes contrasted with delicate, fluid fabrics.

Intricate hand embroidery, including raised-relief techniques inspired by the decorative details of Brâncovenesc iconostases, transformed each piece into an encounter between spiritual heritage and the contemporary language of haute couture.

Affair in Eden — Elite Concept

With Affair in Eden, Elite Concept reinterpreted the symbolism of the Garden of Eden through the perspective of a woman reclaiming her freedom and the right to make her own choices.

The collection explored the contrasts between innocence and seduction, vulnerability and strength, imagining paradise not as a place of perfection, but as a space for self-discovery.

Presented in an intimate, private setting, the collection offered a vision in which temptation became an expression of independence, while clothing reflected confidence and individuality.

Garden of Eden — NISSA

NISSA presented Garden of Eden at the Bucharest National Opera in an experience conceived under the title A Night at the Opera.

The 30 selected looks were showcased through an installation that brought fashion, architecture, music, and artistic projections into dialogue.

Inspired by the image of an imaginary garden, the collection featured elongated silhouettes, fluid draping, sheer fabrics, lace, and delicate embroidery, in a palette of ivory, powder pink, botanical green, and deep blue.

The result was an interpretation of femininity in which romance and sensuality coexisted with a distinctly contemporary attitude.

De Mon Âme à Ton Âme — Vestiaire d’un Oiseau Libre

Through De Mon Âme à Ton Âme, Vestiaire d’un Oiseau Libre offered a poetic interpretation of the relationship between vulnerability and protection.

Industrial textures, specially crafted metallic elements, and raw-edged corsets formed architectural silhouettes reminiscent of armour.

In contrast with these rigid outer structures, the collection explored the sensitivity and intimacy of human relationships, transforming clothing into a metaphor for emotional connections that endure beyond appearances.

The Last Seven Minutes — Ionuț Răzvan

The Last Seven Minutes, the collection by Ionuț Răzvan, was inspired by the idea that, during the final moments of existence, the mind might relive its most beautiful memories.

Structured in three acts — The Beginning, The Living, and The Passage — the presentation traced a journey from innocence and light through the intensity of human experience, culminating in dark, fragmented silhouettes.

Sculptural draping and experimental tailoring translated a deeply personal reflection on love, loss, and the hope of continuity beyond life into the language of fashion.

The Divine Feminine — J’AMEMME

In The Divine Feminine, J’AMEMME explored femininity as a complex identity in a constant state of transformation.

Designer Julie Yarmoliuk brought together sharply tailored suits, sheer dresses, corsets, and column silhouettes, striking a balance between structure and fluidity.

Chiffon, satin, and wool were shaped through hand-crafted draping, pleating, and ruffles, including the signature undulating detail that has become synonymous with the brand.

The palette alternated between graphic tones, soft pastels, and vibrant accents, expressing the freedom to embrace sensitivity, strength, and sensuality within a single identity.

RUSALKA — Rafaela Pestrițu

Inspired by the mythological figure of Rusalka, a feminine spirit associated with water and nature in Eastern European folklore, the RUSALKA collection explored the boundary between reality and illusion.

Rafaela Pestrițu continued her experimentation with trompe-l’œil techniques through lace-illusion prints, combined with distressed vintage lace and translucent layers of chiffon.

Structured corsets, exposed construction details, and fluid draping created silhouettes that appeared to unravel and reassemble with the movement of the body.

FW26/27 — SANTA

SANTA presented a Fall/Winter 2026/27 collection that reinterpreted the concept of power dressing through construction, proportion, and presence.

Generous volumes, exaggerated shoulders, and sculptural surfaces contrasted with precise tailoring, leather, sheer lace, and body-conscious fabrics.

Fur and feathers became structural elements, shaping capes, coats, and dramatic details, within a palette that alternated black and white with electric blue and red.

The collection explored power not as a conventional dress code, but as an expression of self-confidence.

SS27 — M.Marquise

M.Marquise’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection celebrated the art of making a memorable entrance through colour, movement, and intricate hand-crafted details.

Voluminous silk chiffon gowns, three-dimensional flowers, crystal embroidery, and sequined silhouettes alternated with oversized blazers and unexpected proportions.

Hand-painted Chantilly lace and richly textured fabrics completed a wardrobe in which technical refinement met expressive design.

Jewellery by KULTHO accompanied the collection, introducing additional accents of light and brilliance.

The Art of Presence — ALTEZZA by Storojuc

The Art of Presence, the collection by ALTEZZA by Storojuc, explored a form of feminine strength that no longer needs to prove itself.

Structured blazers, generously cut trousers, and fluid panels created a dialogue between control and freedom, protection and exposure.

Sculptural silhouettes and precise proportions were balanced by fabrics that followed the movement of the body, within a restrained palette of black, ivory, and pale yellow.

The collection placed emphasis on a woman’s presence and self-assurance, moving beyond conventional codes of authority.

SS27 — KATEA GRI

For SS27, KATEA GRI presented a subtle exploration of femininity through form, texture, and the relationship between the body and clothing.

Elongated silhouettes, sheer fabrics, open backs, and lingerie-inspired constructions were balanced by precise tailoring.

Sculptural floral embroidery appeared on corsets, tops, and textile accessories, becoming an integral part of each garment’s structure.

Lace and satin, presented in a restrained palette of black and ivory, reinforced an aesthetic that was sensual yet understated.

FW26/27 — PEHOVA

Inspired by the contrasting landscape of Tenerife, PEHOVA’s Fall/Winter 2026/27 collection explored the balance between strength and delicacy.

Designer Lidia Pehova translated the encounter between volcanic rock formations and the fluidity of the ocean into a wardrobe comprising suits, blazers, coats, and occasionwear.

Wool, silk, and cotton were used in constructions that alternated relaxed lines with defined silhouettes, expressing the brand’s Silent Power philosophy: an understated elegance rooted in quiet confidence.

CLOSER — DIOSA

With CLOSER, DIOSA explored a woman’s freedom to define herself through her own desires, drawing inspiration from a scene in Stanley Kubrick’s film Eyes Wide Shut.

References to the visual universe of Lucio Fontana emerged through cuts, openings, and deconstructed forms, from reimagined trench coats and tuxedo jackets to silk satin and chiffon dresses.

Black, white, and red, colours carrying cultural significance in Moldova, shaped a collection exploring sensuality, autonomy, and the relationship between a woman and her own image.

SS27 — Chariot

For SS27, Chariot transformed the shirt, a central element of the brand’s identity, into the starting point for a new interpretation of the menswear wardrobe.

Subtle adjustments to volume and proportion, deep back pleats, and double cuffs connected by specially designed cufflinks highlighted the brand’s attention to construction.

Silk, wool, and carefully selected fabrics introduced fluidity to silhouettes defined by precise tailoring, in a collection that preserved the codes of masculine elegance while approaching them with ease and naturalness.

SS27 — MURMUR

MURMUR celebrated 15 years of creativity with an SS27 collection that revisited the brand’s defining signatures: corsetry, the hourglass silhouette, and details inspired by 1950s lingerie.

Natural silk, satin, and brocade shaped dresses, suits, and structured trousers in shades of powder pink, fuchsia, and white.

The presentation culminated in five limited-edition tribute dresses inspired by iconic designs from the brand’s archive and offered a first glimpse of the MUSETTE x MURMUR capsule footwear collection.

UTC+1 — KSENIASCHNAIDER

UTC+1 marked the first season under Anton Schnaider’s creative direction at KSENIASCHNAIDER, introducing a collection centred on belonging, mobility, and identities in constant transformation.

Football jerseys, racing uniforms, and the graphic codes of sportswear were reinterpreted through fictional logos, numbers, and symbols carrying ambiguous meanings.

The concept of walkwear, designed for those constantly on the move, took shape through functional garments, multiple pockets, and experimental details.

Produced in the brand’s Kyiv atelier, the collection also included six looks developed in collaboration with Lee Cooper.

Time Woven Into Every Stitch — Karen Arcanjo

With Time Woven Into Every Stitch, Karen Arcanjo placed time and the artistry of handcraftsmanship at the heart of the collection.

Hand-crocheted and hand-knitted pieces, produced in workshops in Poland, were complemented by natural materials such as silk, linen, and cotton, selected for their textures and the way they evolve with wear.

Fluid silhouettes and a palette of ecru, sand, pale pink, and muted blue were balanced by supple leather jackets and coats, creating a collection centred on longevity and effortless elegance.

SS27 — Carmen Secăreanu

Carmen Secăreanu continued to explore her distinctive aesthetic at the intersection of fashion, art, and design, presenting a collection infused with dandy influences and deliberately unconventional elegance.

Silk, organza, wool, and gold-flecked brocades came together in garments designed to be worn naturally across different contexts.

Floral accessories, porcelain details, and footwear and bags created with the support of MUSETTE completed a universe in which extravagance was tempered by ease.

The presentation also featured a contribution by sound artist Anamaria Pravicencu.

Wonderland — TTSWTRS

TTSWTRS brought Wonderland to the runway, an 18-look collection inspired by a surreal universe in which nature, imagination, and the human body continuously transform one another.

References to mysterious rabbits, cracked porcelain, roses, and flamingos were translated into prints, exaggerated proportions, and voluminous pink organza.

The experience was enhanced by a technological collaboration with HTC VIVE, featuring AI-powered glasses integrated into the presentation and an immersive installation that extended the collection’s narrative towards themes of overproduction and humanity’s relationship with nature.

Every Woman Is a Maria — MEDEEA

In Every Woman Is a Maria, MEDEEA explored the feminine image as both a personal and collective symbol, drawing on a reference attributed to Helmut Lang and the significance of the name Maria.

Designer Medeea Maria Ene continued her reinterpretation of the female silhouette through the deconstruction of classic menswear elements, bringing precise tailoring together with rigid and fluid materials.

Shades of green, pale pink, blue, and yellow expanded the brand’s colour palette, while embroidery featuring the name “Maria” became a central visual and symbolic element.

X-IDENTITY — Next Generation| Fashion Talent Award

Developed in collaboration with Polimoda, the Next Generation | Fashion Talent Award competition brought together ten emerging Romanian designers, who explored the theme X-IDENTITY through sculptural silhouettes, experimental volumes, and unconventional material combinations.

The award was won by Diana Grigorescu, a master’s student at the University of Art and Design in Cluj-Napoca, with I’ll Be Your Mirror, a collection examining the boundaries between workwear and formal dressing through a genderless approach.

As the competition winner, Diana will have the opportunity to further develop her career in fashion by pursuing a master’s programme at Polimoda in Florence.

The other participating designers were Ariana Stanciu (Shell), Cristiana-Coca Nedelcovici (Between Forms), Vlad Tălmaciu (The New Old), Andrada Negru (Trace of Distortion), Alexia Ilco Luca (Urban Lace), Ioana Andrada Demian (Layers of Self), Ioana Maria Cotfas (X-19), Andrei-Ioan Petculescu (Mezzanine), and Anamaria Vișovan (Lost Memories).

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