Olivier Theyskens presents the final part of his triptych of collections during Paris Fashion Week ...
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11
May
CHANEL – Défilé Croisière 2021/22 – the modernity of the sixties meets the punk!
Chanel Cruise 2021/22 took us to a virtual journey “from Cocteau to Coco”, reminding about the poet and filmmaker Jean Cocteau’s close friendship with the eternelle Coco Chanel, about their incredible creative universes and shared passion for both style and bestiaries.
The teaser, a short film directed by Inez & Vinoodh in Gabrielle Chanel’s mythical apartment at 31 rue Cambon in Paris along with a series of photos, present model muse Lola Nicon in the center of the designer’s world of souvenirs and symbols of the natural world, bringing an ingenuous spirit of rebellious punk to the opulent baroque design of the salon.
The white hibiscus bloom the model is posing with, evokes Jean Cocteau’s surrealist movie: “The Testament of Orpheus” (1960), filmed inside the Carrières de Lumières (Quarriers of Light) – a white limestone former quarry, located in Les Baux-de-Provence, one of the most beautiful villages in France. The film features Cocteau himself – as an 18th-century poet, with unexpected cameo appearances by Pablo Picasso, Charles Aznavour, Jean Marais and Yul Brynner.
Inspired by the friendship between Jean Cocteau and Coco Chanel, their poetic letters, and by the Cocteau’s eclectic film and the picturesque south of France, Virginie Viard specifically chose this monumental décor: the Carrières de Lumières as the set for the Chanel Resort 2022 show.
The concept of the show is “an invitation to travel” through an herbarium from Provence and the collection combines the emotion of two aesthetics: the modernist and the punk.
Virginie Viard’s vision of Chanel Cruise 2021/22 is a mainly black-and-white graphic collection an echo to Cocteau’s film inspiring play of light and shadow, and a mix of masculine and feminine contrasts. The typical Cruise accents create a fresh summer attitude: the Breton stripes, a sailor’s collar unveiling a décolleté on a black tailored dress reminding of Chanel’s earliest designs.
Modern but still classic, the emblematic Chanel tweed suit is reinterpreted, the new jacket silhouette in white bouclé has a fitted peplum, the suits are embellished with chokers, also chains and pearls, a fluid top in ivory crepe georgette is adorned with baroque jewels, inspired by a costume created by Gabrielle Chanel for a play by Jean Cocteau.
The punkish spirit is represented by a tweed jacket with fringed hems and a pareo skirt in white silk with a print of Cocteau’s signature-inspired stars, a cape in macramé matched with a black velvet rock minidress, a white tee-shirt, mesh tank paired with a fringed leather skirt, a black and white crochet jacket over a fluid silk blouse styled with a double C lip jewelry – mixing punk and the Chanel simplicity refinement.
Not forgetting the mini skirt suit in shaded pink tweed, worn by model Lola Nicon with fishnet tights and a tee-shirt printed with her own face as a rock star, evoking the swinging 1960s and the punk rock movement.
Chanel’s favorite bestiary symbols such as: female sphinxes, deer, doves, are printed/imagined as graphic prints on a long delicate dress in crepe, while a jacket in white tweed has also symbolic charms from Coco’s famous apartment in Paris and bottles of Chanel No 5 – the legendary fragrance celebrating 100 years of existence.
The Chanel talismans, like the Lion – Gabrielle Chanel’s zodiac sign, and also a starry night sky and an Art Deco sunburst motif, are printed on a graphic top and flared denim trousers.The lucky charms are also used as embroidery on the ivory lace dresses, and the white linen pants and cotton dresses are embroidered with the beautiful wild flowers of Provence.
As for the fabrics of the collection, more than a third of the looks were made from organic or recycled materials, including sustainable tweeds by Lesage.
The defilé was followed by a musical performance of the musician and CHANEL ambassador Sébastien Tellier who was joined by friends of the house and brand’s ambassadors including special guest appearances by Vanessa Paradis, Charotte Casiraghi, Juliette Armanet and Angèle.
In the finale, white doves were released by the models divided by black and white outfits, and flu from the shadow over the limestone walls of the quarry in the sunny sky of les Baux-en-Provence creating an image of freedom and hope.
The Chanel audience-less Cruise 2021/22 show was broadcasted live on May 4thon the official Chanel website and Instagram account and is still available online to delight you!
Brand: Chanel @chanelofficial Press & PR: Miruna Popa Photos: Chanel Official www.chanel.com @imaxtree Article edit: Fashion Magazine 24 @fashionmagazine24
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