There are so many stories to be told from Paris Fashion Week that a novel requires to be written.Until that happens, let’s make room for another file for the new perfume that has been released in August 2022 by Frédéric Malle – UNCUT GEM.
While rolling from one show to another, FM24 did not miss the chance to visit the Frédéric Malle boutique in the center of Paris and get a glimpse of their latest perfume entry.
As usual, the brand latest release, Uncut Gem, comes with its own surprising scent keeping this way the “signature element” of the fragrance brand – no perfume is similar to the other, each fragrance of the collection is unique, original and with its own independent story and creator.
Frédéric Malle has always liked to take risks and has understood that in expert hands, a hint of flamboyance has infinitely more force than an object of so-called “good taste”.
Hence his quest for what he describes as “an almost cliché Eau de Cologne”: a fragrance that plays with outdated codes of masculinity, while drawing on their ancestral strength to make l something both beautiful and irresistible.
Uncut Gem flirts with bad taste, lassos it, and turns it into a kind of magnet.
Maurice Roucel, collaborator from the very beginning, author of several emblematic perfumes of the House, whose Musc Ravageur and legend of perfumery, is the author of this new opus. Frédéric Malle admits to having been intrigued for years by the perfume worn by Maurice Roucel: a mixture unique that he has composed exclusively for his personal use.
A perfume in the image of its creator: uncompromising, daring, technically flawless and imbued with a warm charm.
“It looks raw formwork at first sight”, exclaims Frédéric Malle, “but behind this deliberate attitude, Maurice is a force of nature: incredibly refined, full of humor, generosity and love for others. I do not I’m not the only one who thought it smelled good, but I’m the one he worked with to make it evolve and make this draft a very successful perfume. And I’m very proud of it, because the result is personal, almost autobiographical and ultra-elegant.“
After five years of persuasion, Maurice Roucel therefore accepted the invitation of Frédéric Malle to create the eau de Cologne that will become Uncut Gem. Some say that the hallmark of Frédéric Malle is filigree chic. Indeed, if he leaves complete freedom of creation to his collaborators, he considers that his role as a publisher is to maintain a certain sensitivity general – a particular tone, even if innovation, reinvention and interpretation are its raison d’être.
“This Perfume is very daring technically – by this enormous dose of crystal ambrocenide – but it is above all totally irresistible” explains Frédéric Malle. “The freshness of natural elements combined with amber and musk provides this feeling of modern elegance that gradually blends into a powerfully virile world. Clear and spicy top notes of bergamot, mandarin orange, ginger, angelica root and nutmeg give way to inner fire: a leather, vetiver and incense accord, a large quantity of amber and musk which vibrate on the skin. A muscular follow-up, in a way, to the torrid Musc Ravageur”.
The result is both direct and enigmatic: great subtlety gives way to raw sex appeal.The smell of skin seems deeper, more intense. Uncut Gem is all about contrast. A fragrance for men that is both wild and sensitive, classic and new, whose the fresh and luxurious first impression turns into a brutal and irresistible trail.
UNCUT GEM by Frédéric Malle – A PERFUME COMPOSED BY MAURICE ROUCEL
A perfume created by its author for his personal use. Because good taste is not enough.